Posts Tagged ‘markets’

Day 21 – up amongst the mountains to Sulmona via Bari & Pescara

Friday, July 2nd, 2010

Enjoyed our night in our trulli, up early, and a coffee was made in the pot on the stove while I went and found some pastries down the street. Had to go to a restaurant for our breakfast (like in Lecce) but we got more that a coffee and croissant – we actually had bacon & eggs! Excellent service – being waited on by three attentive guys that wanted us to come back for a meal (but we were leaving town later in the morning), and we indulged from the buffet with cake, cereal, & yoghurt. Most of the old town streets had developed into an open-air market and we had time to wander around the transformed car parks looking at shoes, clothes, linen and fresh produce. Lots of interesting things to see, and I noticed the fellow (below) arranging the celery, but Wendy didn’t…

Travelled to Bari on the train and bought tickets to Pescara (*note to reader[s] – you should be following our travels on a map or atlas as it will do wonders for your geography) and thought we’d got some window seats but didn’t. Slightly upset because these tickets cost 25 euros each and our compartment had five people in the six seats while two compartments next to us had one each! This was an InterCity train and you get a reserved seat which is where you have to sit. A young guy and also a girl shared our space – they didn’t talk, but we did and once we pulled out our large ‘Rough Guide’ map of Italy we were able to engage with her and chatted about our travels. In Pescara, raced around trying to get off the platforms and had to go down and out & back in again before I could tickets for the next leg while the girls waited on the platform. Not very well sign posted for travellers in a rush. The next train that would get us to Sulmona was in five minutes, so a mad dash back up, and down, & up again, as we had to move across platforms. Had about a minute spare! Just a little bit too exciting – but good to be on the right train. A very scenic ride to Sulmona with the train weaving along a valley and through tunnels and following an elevated roadway.

As we pulled into one of the stops along the way, a young bloke seemed to be loitering behind Maryann who was standing at the window. He seemed to be undecided about something, and as the train pulled to a stop, rushed past us and gave something to a girl behind us, said something, and jumped off the train. He had given her some sort of note (written in rough block letters and finished with ‘CIAO’ (yes, dear reader I did sneak a look over the back of the seat). The girl read quietly and then rang a friend and had a chuckle about it, and then she got off at the next stop. We can only imagine what the note may have said. It was nice that the third train trip for the day wasn’t as crowded as the previous two. A fairly long day on the trains today and a couple more to go before we get all the way up & across Italy to Riomaggiore, the beginning of the Italian Riviera at the Cinque Terra.

Caught the local bus up to town and got off the bus a little too early (someone misunderstood our question) and asked a lady for directions and she turned out to speak very good english. She’d been born in Sulmona and married an Englishman and had come back for a visit because the Pope was coming. Checked into our digs and took a turn around the centro and enjoyed the atmosphere with everybody out doing their stroll. Groups of old men chatting and gesticulating, old ladies on the benches clasping handbags in their laps. Past the fountain, under the ancient aquaduct, and through Piazza Garibaldi with lots of scaffolding and chairs piled up getting ready for a big event. Later we checked out three restaurants on the map before we found one that was open and tried some pasta. I had mine served but the girls were still waiting after I’d finished! Apparently the waiter mixed up the order and a couple on another table got the girl’s cabonaras, and they had to wait while they made up some more. We didn’t find out about this till later though, and were a little annoyed that we paid then 4.50 euros for service and no apology!

Day 04 – All night ferry gets us across the Mediteranian to Palermo, Sicily

Wednesday, June 9th, 2010

What an absolute treat the Naples-Palermo ferry was! Our last ferry experience was quite appalling so this time it was great to be pleasantly surprised with spacious decks, a roomy cabin with working shower and lots of towels and a great bed. The views of evening Naples and morning Palermo were very beautiful and there seemed hardly a ripple on the glassy sea. A great journey and upon arrival we left our bags at the hostel and walked the city of Palermo for half a day until we could collapse in our room for a siesta.

This is another city with amazing piles (of church, buildings, & ruins) everywhere and a lot of markets which resulted in a scarf and jewel purchase today! Coffee is excellent and available at small bars every where. The sky has been blue and the temperature perfect. Wandered down a couple of market streets and loved the look of all the fresh produce. There are churches galore and we wandered into a few. Some seem to be struggling to be kept nice and the bigger once obviously get more attention.

People seem happy and laid back, no real pressure until you start walking past the guys (seem to be mainly Indians) selling cheap imitation stuff. Jewellery, watches, sunnies, & toys all spread out on a table often supported by an old pram, or other wheeled convenience to make it easier to cart around. Some people (generally black Africans) have huge plastic bags that they unpack onto a sheet laid out directly on the footpath, and spend some time carefully arranging their produce – mostly imitation bags… These vendors set up just about anywhere and can at times line both sides of the street so that you feel like you’re running the gauntlet. Might just have to stop sometime and pick up a pair of sun glasses as we’ve managed to break one pair already.

There also seems to be lots of tiny little cafe/bars/general stores that sell a range of food and drink, but I reckon it must be difficult to eke out an existence from such a small shop, with plenty of competition, and with very few customers. Maybe things are different when it gets really busy in the summer and I suppose there’s also plenty of locals to buy stuff. These narrow streets carry regular traffic too, with room for only one car, so sometimes there is some jostling to get by the stalls and scooters etc. coming the other way. This is all a complete juxtaposition with the newer part of town which is more like the city as we know it. Proper shop fronts and stores with airconditioning and sometimes security guards keeping an eye on things. Oh, and haven’t managed to bump into any of the ‘family’ yet, and don’t expect too – I’m just passing through.

Having a car in the city means you need to understand a whole new literacy of parking (often double and/or on the footpath), some sense of how much courtesy you need to show and how firm you need to be to merge in with the rest of the chaos. Also a fair degree of patience is required as cars, trucks, scooters, & busses just stop and go about some business before moving on again. Generally turning a blind ear to the noise of horns tooting and raised voices (mostly just to let people know someone else is around rather than in anger). It’s all a bit crazy, but there is some sense of grace in that everybody generally gets to where their going without too much grief. Not for me though – would rather walk…